The first time I saw the Rakaposhi was on the way to Lost, at a stop, on a corner where it was, imposing and white. We were lucky we were told, we don’t see it very often so we have to stop and wait for the clouds to clear. The mountains have their own climate.
That day we stopped on the way to stretch our legs, drink something and enjoy the show that didn’t last long, I forgot to take a picture before the clouds covered the summit, I’ve already told you a thousand times that I’d rather enjoy and then, if that, photograph. We stood for at least an hour in the small park at the foot of the waterfall that acts as a lookout point and tries to see it again, but it didn’t happen. When we got back on the bike we realized that we had left it with the keys in it, we giggled and shortened the time we entered the country convinced of how “dangerous” it was going to be.
The second time I saw him was shortly after passing the viewpoint, shyly clearing for a few seconds while he was climbing in the back at 60 km per hour on the KKH. I got excited again, never in my life had a mountain made me feel such a way…. and that’s when I became obsessed. I’d have to touch it or I wouldn’t be happy.
We did road 18 and part of road 19.
We drew up the plan for a visit to the base camp within our own days, thanks to the help of Rao we found our goal: Minapin, once there, put us in touch with the owner of Osho Hotel who welcomed us, explained the way and filled our bellies the night before the adventure.
9 in the morning, from the hotel you can’t see the mountain, I couldn’t get over it because all I wanted to do was have a cup of coffee looking at it. I walked out of the room with tired eyes and hoping that somehow the world had moved on and she was there in front of me. We ate some of the samosas from the previous day in the room and packed our bags for our walk. We would go up with the intention of staying one night so it was necessary to cook and camp, it is supposed that at the top there is a camp with tents but the season has just started and we know first hand that it is very possible that this dessert, we prepared everything in a single backpack and in the other small one we made ourselves with water and some easy provisions like cookies.
1:30 p.m., we left the hotel after the strongest hours of sunshine, the walk had been described as easy, so it shouldn’t be too much trouble to get to base camp in about three hours. The first thing we did was to go into the village and finally take one of the narrow streets (the second one) on the right hand side, from where the road starts to climb up the river towards the mountain on a road that could be used by a zigzagging Jeep and ends at the actual start of the walk. This first part under the sun is hard, but then the road is a little steep and becomes much more pleasant. The first step would be to get to the first Taghapari camp, from where we would be halfway to the base camp.
About an hour later we passed a small house with goats and a couple of children playing, who accompanied us about 200 meters from the road. Once we arrived at the waterfall we had instructions to follow “to the left”, but we did not see any option other than to climb the waterfall (effectively to the left), it was from that moment that the climb turned into torture and although thanks to the GPS we knew where we were we also knew that this should not be the way. After climbing the waterfall we pass Tagahpari on one side. In a frustrated attempt to find the route again we ended up in a dry river that clearly reached our small summit and we decided to follow it, the slope was more than 50 degrees.
We had moments of horror, especially for being useless, a couple of days before we spoke with Tatiana and Javi, from Caminando por el balloon that had made the way a couple of months before us, they told us how they ended up climbing a horribly steep path and had to go down in a hurry because there was nothing on top and they were not prepared to spend the night. I remembered our backpack, the same one that was bleeding us up the road that would probably be the same steep road as them.